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Pakistani Death Loop

Word: “Pakistani Death Loop” (PDL) (n, v)

Definition: An unfortunate event that can happen while simul-climbing, usually while vying for a speed record, the PDL occurs when a sizable loop of slack (sometimes upwards of 20m) develops between the lead climber and an anchor he’s short-fixed off, even if he’s placed pieces above the anchor (n). As the lore has it, a Pakistani climber (name unknown) was on his way in 1991 to setting the speed record on the Nose of El Capitan when he fell while short-fixing Pancake Flake. He took a screamer—about a 130-footer that, while not fatal, was certainly dangerous. (Example: “I ran a huge PDL on pitch 26…I was looking at, like, a 50-foot fall, bro-bra-bree!”)

To use a giant loop of slack (a PDL) as the only means of protecting one’s self from falling to the ground (v). (Example:I PDL’ed the s*** out of that pitch!”)

[submitted by Sean K]